Summer Bear Jacket 02

Pattern/Technique: Wiksten Jacket in size XL (mid length)

Modifications:

• Made the collar half the width specified by the pattern

• Left out the fusible interfacing called for by the pattern, since the lining fabric was a structured waffle-knit cotton

Materials:

• Black Japanese Cotton Dobby (main material) - 3 yds (45"). Purchased from Stonemountain Fabrics

• White waffled cotton (lining) - 3 yds (56"). Purchased from Stonemountain Fabrics

• Aurifil 50wt in Natural White & Black

New skills: n/a

Lessons: I sewed the lining/main fabric together around the edge of the jacket before attaching the collar, which was the right call. The layers were nice and stable when I sewed on the collar.

Using a different top / bobbin thread is a great way to match both sides of the garment when sewing layers of high contrast fabric. However, given the finicky bobbin tension on my machine, it's important to test the thread tension so that neither thread is visible.

While sewing the collar, I wanted really clean lines, so I took care to press the hem along the grid of the waffled material (making slight adjustments with my fingers where necessary). I think I was offset by one square but I made the transition at the back of the neck where it wouldn't be noticeable.

It's a lot easier to pattern match using a fabric with a small/medium repeating motif, because small errors are less noticeable.

This is the first time I've remade a pattern I've previously sewn. I was pleasantly surprised that the process was much smoother this time around.

Marking notches is always worth the effort.

What I'd do differently: I tried to do a color blocking thing (inspired by this Stonemountain sewist post) but with the narrow collar and super high contrast colors, it isn’t quite working for me. I'm probably going to dye the lining (maybe to a charcoal grey or black) to make it a little more neutral.

Care: Hand wash, lay flat to dryl.

Summer Bear Jacket

This jacket is like a hug. I purchased the fabric back in June on my first trip to Stonemountain Fabric, where I spent an hour just wandering in awe of their overwhelming selection. I had no idea how to pick fabric but I walked out with this combo--kudos, Past Lauren. While sewing it I encountered a few "make it work" moments, particularly with the collar, but the imperfections are a nice reminder that I've progressed far enough to improvise when things go sideways, and that there's still more to master.

Pattern: Wiksten Jacket in size XL made in 100% cotton ikat (exterior) and 100% mariners cloth (lining). Didn't add exterior pockets, but might make one on the inside.

New skills: Sewing/attaching a lining, experimenting with cutting fabric across the grain (specifically the lining), pattern matching

Lessons: The pattern calls for interfacing, and I'm here to warn you: tread lightly! Using 2 layers of featherweight in the collar made it very crispy and the bottom of the collar stuck out aggressively; I ended up detaching the collar and removing both layers, but the collar piece got stretched out and had to be shortened.

Iron-on interfacing doesn't stick very well to textured fabric like mariners cloth.

A sharp seam ripper is a happy seam ripper, but it's easy to snag your fabric. I fixed the rip by sewing a very short zig zag stitch over the damaged area.

Use serger thread that matches your fabric so that if a serged seam accidentally shows it blends in.

What I'd do differently: Add a running stitch around the raw edge of the collar and neck to prevent it from stretching. Iron the fabric before cutting pattern pieces - I thought it was pretty wrinkle free and a took a shortcut, but there was a single crease that caused one of the front panels to be too long. I think I'd add a running stitch along the bottom hem too, because as the mariners cloth relaxes, the lining is starting to show below the hem.

Care: Hand wash, lay flat to dry.

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A note on name: This pattern is officially named the Wiksten Haori but I feel weird calling it that (many thanks to Emi Ito for this educational piece), so I like to call it the Wiksten Jacket or the Summer Bear Jacket in honor of the song by Kishi Bashi.