Sculthorpe Pants 03

Pattern/Technique: Sculthorpe Pants by Muna & Broad in size ii

Modifications: added 3 in of length to pant leg

Materials: 2.75 yds Kaufman essex (cotton linen blend) in Navy.

New skills: n/a

Lessons: Be careful to read where to attach interfacing. I fused the interfacing to the pocket piece instead of the side pants panel. I was able to work around the mistake thankfully.

While stitching the folded waistband I used the following technique:

• Inserted pins parallel to the waistband in the ditch to gauge overlap. Sewed pants on my janome machine using aurifil 40 weight thread to prevent any skipped stitches.

I did a lot of dialing in on elastic length on this set of pants, using previous pairs as reference:

• Grey Ikat Ninni Culottes: 34”, no topstitching. Elastic feels good, not too tight or loose.

• Black Sculthorpe Pants: 32”, topstitched. Elastic feels a bit tight.

I cut the elastic for these to 37”, which would give a 36” waistband with 1” of overlap. The elastic feels really comfortable and I skipped topstitching because I didn’t want the waistband to stretch any more. I think with topstitching I’d go down to a 35” waistband to account for expansion.

What I'd do differently: I’m happy with the elastic on these and I want to continue to dial in the correct waistband elastic size with zigzag topstitching.

Care: Machine wash cold, lay flat to dry.

Sculthorpe Pants 02 | Black Brussels Washer Linen

Pattern/Technique: Sculthorpe Pants by Muna and Broad, size ii

Modifications: Lengthened pant legs by 3” and used a 1” hem on the finished bottom hem.

Materials: 2.5 yds Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen (52”) in Black.

Note: Cut 4 pieces of 7” x 1” interfacing for side panels

Used 32 1/2” to get a 31 1/2” waistband (1” overlap). In retrospect this was actually pretty snug, even with topstitching (topstitched at 1” & 1/2”).

New skills: n/a

Lessons: See notes from past make here.

Brussels Washer Linen is super linty when washing/drying and has a pretty scratchy texture after the first wash. Thankfully this didn’t persist after multiple washes.

Had some trouble with stitching in the ditch on the waistband and used my fingers as a guide + added more pins to compensate for this.

What I'd do differently: Minimalistmachinist on IG shared a technique to use a zigzag stitch to topstitch elastic, which reduces how much it stretches out (vs. topstitching with straight stitch). I'd like to give this a try on a future set of elastic waist pants.

Could stand to add an additional 1” of length to the pant legs.

Use a longer waistband elastic for better comfort.

Care: Machine wash cold, lay flat to dry

Epilogue: Wore holes through the inner thighs on 10/13/22 after hiking the Skyline Trail on Cape Breton Island. Planning to salvage the elastic for a future set of Sculthorpe pants. Thanks for your service pants!