Fen Top

Pattern/Technique: Fen Shirt by Fancy Tiger Crafts, size 20

Materials: Mora Slub rayon/linen blend in Cobalt, 2.5 yds

New skills: n/a

Lessons: This shirt came together really quickly—it's only 3 pieces and I've practiced all the techniques before--which is a nice affirmation of the skills I've been building over the past year.

I notched the underarm seams after serging them and took care not to notch too aggressively (the material is a pretty loose weave and I didn't want the notches migrating into the seams). The material seems to be holding and not fraying but I should keep an eye on this. (Update: the fabric has definitely frayed with washing and some of the serged edges have actually frayed away, though the seams appear to be still structural. I think in the future with loose weave I may serge and not notch, and see if the fabric can stretch to accommodate the underarm curve.)

I went out of order on the steps for finishing the neckband; I didn’t serge the bias binding before attaching it to the neckline, instead I serged the entire thing after attaching, and then pressed the seam to the inside of the shirt.

Topstitching the neckline is super important, especially with a shifty/drapey fabric that will stretch out when manipulated.

What I'd do differently: n/a

Care: Machine wash cold, lay flat to dry

Fen Dress

This photo is a bit of a potato. We were in the middle of a heat wave so my hair is doing a thing, the wall is blah, the patio could use a deep clean. But it was the first picture of my first sewn garment (!!!) and I am STOKED to learn more about making clothes!

Pattern: Fen Dress by Fancy Tiger Crafts; sewn in a linen/viscose blend from Joann Fabrics

New skills: Tracing a pattern, sewing gathers, pockets, darts, making bias binding tape

Lessons learned: When buying fabric, take a picture of the bolt end so you can look up wash instructions later.

Weigh down the tracing paper when tracing a pattern or your lines will be squirrelly (glasses work well) and use a straight edge wherever possible. I had to retrace my entire pattern. Then trace your cut pattern on the fabric directly before cutting (I also pinned the tissue pattern to the fabric as a fallback).

Measure darts after sewing to make sure they're the same length. Don't pull too hard on basting thread tails when making gathers or the thread will break.

Trim threads as you go or you'll end up with a rats nest. Seam gauges are amazing when turning hems under.

Pin turned hems before pressing.

Making bias tape is really easy.

This sleeve style is called a dolman sleeve! Linen blends don't wrinkle too badly and get softer with each wash.

What I'd do differently: There were some fit issues I noticed, and I've been thinking of possible solutions (suggestions and corrections are welcome!) The neckline has a bit of gape in front, I think this can be fixed by taking in the shoulder seams at the neckline a little. The waist is a bit loose, which can probably be fixed by taking in the side seams and maybe the bodice darts, though because this is a woven fabric, I'll need to make sure it can still fit over the bust. I'd also try to get the gathers a little closer to the pockets in front.

My seam finishes are pretty sloppy and I'd like to take more time to get those right.

Care: Machine wash in cold water on a delicate cycle, Do not use chlorine bleach or Fabric softener, Tumble dry low, Use a cool iron