I've been intrigued by boxy tops, but reticent to take the plunge because this silhouette doesn't always look right with a full bust. The Kabuki top appealed to my interest in geometric motifs with its wide sleeves and unusual front seams. After making a toile for the Zadie jumpsuit, I decided to make a wearable muslin of the Kabuki. And because I'm a sucker for self-punishment, I started (and finished) in a single evening, the night before I flew out for a wedding.
Pattern: Kabuki top (size 22) by Paper Theory Patterns; sewn in 100% cotton seersucker from Joann Fabrics
New skills: Petting in sleeves, sewing a right angle seam on the inside of a garment
Lessons: Placing a pin at a 45 degree angle where the corner of the sleeve is set in to the front/back of the garment provides a guide for where to stop sewing and turn the piece. At those same corners, be careful to not snip the fabric too aggressively into the seam allowance - I had to backstitch a bunch to prevent the corner from fraying where I'd done that.
As a general rule, don't sew garments on a short deadline. Although this particular instance was a lot of fun, this was a pretty simple make that still took 5-6 hours.
What I'd do differently: Seersucker is a structured fabric and emphasizes the "boxiness" of the top. I'd like to try making this again in a drapier fabric like mora slub linen (linen/rayon blend) or maybe a knit.
While this is the "correct" size based on my measurements, there's a ton of ease around the waist. I'd like to experiment with making a smaller size and adding a dartless FBA (h/t to @minimalistmachinist for the idea).
Care: Machine wash, tumble dry low, iron on cotton setting with steam
Fitting notes:
Toile 01
Cut size 22 for all pieces