Teal Coffee Fukin

Pattern/Technique: Coffee Sashiko Fukin Club by SASHIKO.LAB

Modifications: I used the Daruma gridded hanafukin cloth, which required a slight mod to stitch at the midpoint of each cross to get the correct number of stitches. (Kazue covers this in detail in the course materials.)

Materials:

New skills: kuguri-sashi

Lessons/Notes:

This course combined two methods of sashiko: hitomezashi, where you make a single stitch from point to point on your grid (in this case I used a 5mm grid so each stitch length is 5mm); and kuguri-sashi, a technique where you then weave through your earlier stitches.

When doing kuguri-sashi you should use the back/eye of the needle to weave the thread through the stitches so that you don’t catch the cloth with the sharp end of the needle.

I trimmed all the ends of my sashiko thread as I went, but what you’re actually supposed to do is trim after washing the finished hanafukin (I think because it’s essentially blocking the finished cloth, which may loosen the fabric/threads).

For the border, I opted to hand sew a border around the edge of the mat (approx 1/8” in from the edge) to catch the raw edges of the fabric that had been folded under. I used sewing thread (Guterman) held double in a navy that matched the background cloth.

I love how the variegation in the hand dyed indigo/gardenia sashiko thread looks across the woven pattern, giving it motion and depth. While photographing it, I realized it reminded me of the shimmering Northern Lights. (I have 2 vivid memories of the aurora: coming home from a school event on a cold winter night, getting out of my car and seeing a quarter of the sky shimmering just to the right of the big dipper; and sitting at a campfire with my grandma during the summer.) It wasn’t my goal with this project, but I think my subconscious was connecting to home & the past in some way as I stitched.

What I'd do differently: On my next hanafukin, I’d like to try and align the raw/folded edges of my cloth so that the border section is a bit more balanced across the length/width of the cloth. I’ll also probably machine sew the raw edges together with right sides facing, then turn the right sides out to hide the raw seam instead of trying to fold the edges under and hand baste.

Care: Machine wash cold (though I actually hand washed mine to prevent the natural dye from bleeding), dry flat

Asanoha Hitomezashi Sashiko

Finished square of asanoha (hemp leaf) hitomezashi sashiko sttiched in white thread on a navy cloth

Pattern/Technique: Asanoha Hitomezashi class taught by SASHIKO.LAB

Materials: Stitched on navy essex (cotton linen blend) with white Aurifil 18wt cotton thread

Lessons: This class was fantastic! Kazue, the instructor, is based in Kyoto and offers a monthly class that covers different styles and patterns of sashiko stitching. In class I learned that the asanoha pattern resembles a hemp leaf (which is frequently stitched on baby clothing because hemp is strong and grows well) and this style of stitching where each side of the shape unit is done in a single stitch is called hitomezashi (the moyozashi stitching style uses a running stitch, and is a style of sashiko I’ve seen far more frequently online).

It was really cool to get to do the construction process for the design using a 5mm grid. (My only previous experience with sashiko was stitching on a pre-printed panel of fabric.) I ended up using one my white mechanical fabric pencils to draw the design, and it seemed to hold up well enough to get through the foundational stitches.

Stitching on the grid guide worked far better for me than my previous experience of stitching a pre-printed pattern on fabric (I was spending so much mental energy trying to get all my stitches to be the same length as the printed pattern and couldn’t get into any flow). With the grid approach, the stitches felt far less constrained, and I was able to start getting into a rhythm with the running stitch (Atshushi at sashikostory has discussed this at length) which was really exciting.

Kazue recommended pulling the thread a bit tighter than usual (vs. a moyozashi pattern) as loose threads can make the asanoha pattern look distorted. The added tension also gave the fabric a lovely slightly crinkled texture.

The asanoha pattern is definitely a challenge for a beginner to keep track of (particularly steps 5 & 6), but Kazue had a super helpful breakdown of those steps. A good way to check if the stitching order is correct in steps 5 & 6 is to look at the reverse of the fabric and see if a honeycomb shape is formed.

The reverse of the finished cloth featuring a honeycomb pattern

Progress picture of the first sets of vertical/horizontal stitches