Pattern/Technique: Wiksten Jacket in size XL (mid length)
Modifications:
Made the collar half the width specified by the pattern
Left out the fusible interfacing called for by the pattern, since the lining fabric was a structured waffle-knit cotton
Materials:
Black Japanese Cotton Dobby (main material) - 3 yds (45"). Purchased from Stonemountain Fabrics
White waffled cotton (lining) - 3 yds (56"). Purchased from Stonemountain Fabrics
Aurifil 50wt in Natural White & Black
New skills: n/a
Lessons: I sewed the lining/main fabric together around the edge of the jacket before attaching the collar, which was the right call. The layers were nice and stable when I sewed on the collar.
Using a different top / bobbin thread is a great way to match both sides of the garment when sewing layers of high contrast fabric. However, given the finicky bobbin tension on my machine, it's important to test the thread tension so that neither thread is visible.
While sewing the collar, I wanted really clean lines, so I took care to press the hem along the grid of the waffled material (making slight adjustments with my fingers where necessary). I think I was offset by one square but I made the transition at the back of the neck where it wouldn't be noticeable.
It's a lot easier to pattern match using a fabric with a small/medium repeating motif, because small errors are less noticeable.
This is the first time I've remade a pattern I've previously sewn. I was pleasantly surprised that the process was much smoother this time around.
Marking notches is always worth the effort.
What I'd do differently: I tried to do a color blocking thing (inspired by this Stonemountain sewist post) but with the narrow collar and super high contrast colors, it isn’t quite working for me. I'm probably going to dye the lining (maybe to a charcoal grey or black) to make it a little more neutral.
Care: Hand wash, lay flat to dryl.
